Xbox 360 Error codes

THIS ERROR CODE GUIDE IS IN NO WAY OFFICIAL NOR DO WE MAKE ANY CLAIMS TO IT'S ACCURACY. 100% of the info here was discovered by Scene Members through trial and error, a lot of the information is probably incorrect, but it is our best guess. If you discover something that is incorrect or not included please PM twistedsymphony to update the guide. Neither Xbox-Scene, twistedsymphony, nor any of the guide contributers take responsibility for any actions you might take as a result of reading this guide.

--==ERROR Codes==--
If there is a problem with the Xbox360 The LEDs in the ring of light will flash in a particular pattern. The pattern itself leads some insight to the problem. Certain patterns will lead to numbered error codes which will provide further insight to the problem. The numbered error codes are described below their corrosponding LED code.

these are the codes we know so far...
Please contribute if you know of new codes that are not part of this list.

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Sections 1, 2, 3, and 4 are flashing red
- The AV cable cannot be detected
/ \
\ /

THINGS TO TRY

1. Make sure that the AV cable is correctly connected to the Xbox 360 console.
2. Disconnect the AV cable from the Xbox 360 console, and then reconnect the AV cable to the Xbox 360 console.
3. If the four flashing red lights continue to flash, try wiping the metal area of the AV pack with a dry cloth. The metal area is the end that plugs into the console. Wipe the metal area thoroughly, and then try the AV Pack again.
4. If the AV cable is correctly connected but the four red lights are still flashing, substitute a different AV cable if you have one available.

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Sections 1, 3, and 4 are flashing red
- General Hardware Failure
/ \
\ /

Check out this tutorial!  If you are getting the 3 Red Light Fix (AKA Three Red Lights of Death, 3RLOD, Red Ring of Death, X-Clamp Fix) This link has the information you need!!

Check the secondary Error Code per the instructions in the section below

THINGS TO TRY

1. Try restarting the console.
2. If restarting the console does not resolve the behavior, follow these steps:
   • Turn the console off.
   • Unplug all the power and AV cables from the console.
   • Unplug the power cord from the wall socket.
   • Firmly reconnect all the cables.
   • Turn on the console.
3. If these steps do not resolve the behavior, turn the console off, remove the hard drive, and then turn on the console. If the 3x Red LED error light is no longer displayed, turn the console off, re-attach the hard drive, and then turn on the console.
4. Also examine the lights on the power supply. When you turn on the console, the power supply light should illuminate green even if the three lights on the RoL flash red.

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Sections 1, and 3 are flashing red
- Overheating
/ \
\ /
Alternativly Overheating can be cause by the console locking up or "freezing" after a set amount of time. Lockups that occur at a specific point in a game are generally problems with the game itself and not caused by overheating.

THINGS TO TRY

1. Let the Xbox 360 console cool.
   Note You may have to wait several hours for the console to cool enough. Do not turn on the console when the console is hot.
2. Verify that the console has sufficient ventilation and that the fan is operating. For more information about ventilation, see the "More Information" section.

PREVENTION SUGGESTIONS
To try to prevent this problem, use the following precautions:

• Do not block any ventilation openings on the Xbox 360 console.
• Do not put the Xbox 360 console on a bed, on a sofa, or on any other soft surface that may block ventilation openings.
• Do not put the Xbox 360 console in a confined space, such as a bookcase, a rack, or a stereo cabinet, unless the space is well-ventilated.
• Do not put the Xbox 360 console near any heat source, such as a radiator, a heat register, a stove, or an amplifier.

DO NOT EVER PUT YOUR CONSOLE IN THE FREEZER OR OUT IN COLD WEATHER
Some people think that doing this might help "fix" an overheating console, in fact doing so could cause even bigger problems. Electronic devices like your console are made to function at and around room temperature, extreme cold temperatures can often cause just as many problems as extreme warm temperatures (such as overheating). Also if the console is located in a dramatically cold area while running, the difference in temperature between the hot console and cold air can create condensation which in turn will short out your console making the situation far worse. Condensation will happen more quickly if your console is overheating due to the greater difference in temperature. In short... DON'T DO IT.

A more agressive Solution to overheating is to improve the cooling system of the console. The best solution is to replace the thermal compound. If you attempt this you do so at your own risk. If you're console is still underwaranty it is recomended that you contact MS for a replacement before attempting to fix it yourself.

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Section 4 is flashing red
- Hardware Failure
/ \
\ /

The Specific Type of hardware failure can be determined by the error code displayed on the screen.
If the screen is blank or you would like additional information follow the instructions for determining the secondary error code in the section below
E45: Unknown (possibly dashboard update related)

E64: DVD Drive Error.... DVD Timeout, Wrong firmware, dvd is without f/w chip, etc.

E65: DVD Drive Error.... DVD Timeout, Wrong firmware, dvd is without f/w chip, etc. This can also be caused by the tray not being fully closed on boot.

E66: DVD Drive Error: DVD model, or version does not match that of the version expected by the dashboard. OR the firmware version on the drive is older then the firmware version expected by the dashboard. Make sure the DVD drive is of the same version originally included with the console and that it is using either the original firmware included with the console or newer.

E67: Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it

E68: Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it, This can also be caused by a Hard Drive Eprom Error. Some also believe this might be caused by a problem with the fans.

E69: Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it

E71: possibly a dashboard update error, Check below in the "Console Reset Codes" for instructions. If that does not work there is no other solution and the console must be sent back to MS for repair.

E72: (not yet known)

E73: General Hardware Error: Ethernet port... this error is caused by a problem with the Ethernet port.

E74: AV cable error... There is a problem with the AV cable, try using a different AV cable. If the cable is known to be working then there is a 90% chance it's a scaler chip problem (the "ANA" or "HANA" chip connected directly to the AV cable) in rare cases it is the GPU.

E76: (not yet known)

E79: Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it

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--==SECONDARY ERROR CODES==-
The specific type of hardware failure can be determined by a "hidden" error code

• Turn the xbox 360 on, and wait till the 3 red lights are flashing.
• Press and hold the sync up button (the small white one), while holding that button press the eject button.
• The LEDs will now blink the first number in the code (as described below).
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the second number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the third number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will now blink the forth number of the code.
• Release the eject button and press it again.
• The LEDs will go back to the 3 red flashing lights.

You should be able to determine the difference between the 3 flashing lights and the error code lights by the rate in which they flash.

Here is how you interpret the LEDs to get the code number:

• All four lights flashing - 0
• One light flashing - 1
• Two Lights flashing - 2
• Three lights flashing - 3

0001 power supply problem
0002 Network Interface problem
0003 Power problem could be the PSU could be the GPU/CPU, somehow the console isn't getting clean power from the power supply.
0010 over heating
0011 over heating - If you are receiving this error after disassembling your console make sure to all 8 of the heatsync screws are tightened securely to the board/heatsink holes.
0012 over heating
0013 over heating
0020 (Not yet known, possibly overheating)
0021 DVD Drive Time out - Can be caused by problems with a firmware flash. This is also speculated to sometime be caused by a problem with the southbridge chipset on the motherboard.
0022 GPU Error / GPU Overheating
0023 (not yet known)
...
0101 (not yet known)
0102 unknown error

• though it's most likely GPU related literally means the console does not know what is wrong. possibly a short or cold solder joint somewhere. So far there is 1 major theory for what causes most of these errors is that the Ram, CPU, or GPU are not soldered properly to the mother board due either to poor manufacturing or excessive heat up and cool down cycles that stress, weaken and eventually break the soldered connection.
  There are two theories to fixing this one deals with the "X" clamps that hold down the chips. The other involves re-Heating the chips. DO NOT attempt either of these if your console is still under warranty. If your console is still under warranty return it to the store where it was purchased or call MS to have it replaced. I have also heard of limited success by simply switching the AV cable from "HDTV" mode to "TV" mode.

0103 CPU Error/ CPU Overheating - see solution for error 0102
0110 Memory Error / Memory Overheating - see solution for error 0102
...
0200 (not yet known)
...
1000 (not yet known)
1001 (not yet known)
1002 (not yet known)
1003 Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it
1010 Hard Drive Error, Can be caused buy a corrupt or missing eProm.
1011 (not yet known)
1012 (not yet known)
1013 (not yet known) possibly a dashboard update error
1020 (not yet known)
1021 (not yet known)
1022 AV cable error... There is a problem with the AV cable, try using a different AV cable. (could also be a problem with the encoder chip)
1023 DVD drive not connected, connect DVD drive to boot
1030 (not yet known)
1031 (not yet known)
1032 (not yet known)
1033 (not yet known)
...
1444 and up There is no "4" in the error codes four lights is a "0" go back and check your code again.

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--==Console Reset Codes==--
Clear All Installed Game Updates and Console Cache

1. Go to the "system" blade
2. Select "memory"
3. Press Y on the HD symbol
4. Press X,X, Left Bumper, Right Bumper, X,X
5. A message will appear saying: "Do you want to perform maintenance on your Xbox 360 storage devices?"
6. Select Yes

Clear Any Failed system updates that cause the console to error.

1. With the console off, press and hold the sync up button (the small white one)
2. While holding the sync button press the power button to turn on the console
3. Continue to hold the sync button until the Console has booted up completely.
4. During the boot process the console should clear any failed updates, allowing you to use it normally.

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--==Sending in your Console for Repair==--
If none of the above suggestions work, contact MS customer support get get a support ticket started. If your console is still under warranty DO NOT attempt to open it and fix it yourself. MS will fix it promptly and for free and if you open it you loose the free support.

Check the documentation that came with your Xbox 360 for contact information.

In the US Customer Support can be reached at 1-800-4-MY-XBOX (1-800-469-9269)

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Llamma's Xbox 360 3RLOD (three red light error) X-Clamp Fix Tutorial

If you are one of the few who is not familiar with the Xbox 360 Red ring of Death than consider yourself lucky.  Unfortunately, a large number of folks know all to well from their own experience.  Fortunately for those who have not opened their console for any reason Microsoft has extended the warranty of ANY console experiencing the 3 red lights failure for a full three years from the manufacture or purchase date.
NOTE: If you are getting the three red lights and you have not opened your console by all means call Microsoft first at 1-800-4MY-XBOX this will get you in touch with customer support.
For the rest of us who have opened their console for one of many reasons like adding a suped-up case or even a well overdue cleaning for that matter, there is a viable solution; the "x-clamp fix". 
For most consoles only the GPU x-clamp needs to be replaced, but some also require the processor clamp be replaced as well.  For this tutorial we will be doing both clamps at the same time.  We suggest you do both right away since even if yours does not require the processor clamp replacement it will not hurt to do it and it only takes slightly longer to complete the fix.
  You do not have to use our kit but it is important to have proper spacing between your heatsinks and the motherboard.  We have chosen our hardware to be exactly what we wanted and needed.  Not all washers are the same thickness so be careful in your selection.  Ours are 1mm thick each and is necessary for success using this tutorial.  If you are using smaller more thin washers or vice versa you will need to figure out how many you need to achieve the same thickens as what is described below
We put together an All In One Xbox 360 Ring of Death Repair Kit with all the hard to find tools and supplies you will need in one easy package.

Once the kit has been installed I regularly get questions like.  "Now that it is working is there anything I can do to make sure it keeps working?"  We do have two highly recommended upgrades that will help.  Put in a better fan and update to the HeatPipe Heatsink if you don't already have one.  Any of the Talismoon fans will run faster than the stock fan, if you go for the whisper max you will also get a turbo switch to run the fans at 12V.  The heatpipe GPU heatsink is part of Microsoft's solution to address the Red Light issue it is designed to move the heat from the GPU in front of the CPU heatsink where the flow of air is faster.

Supplies:
4 12mm Cheese Head Screws
8 M5 Nylon Washers - 1 mm thick
16 M5 Steel Washers - 1 mm thick
Kit (enough hardware for GPU or CPU get two kits to do both)
Arctic Silver heat sink paste
Arctic Silver ArtiClean heatsink paste remover
Tools:
360 Opening Tool
Torx T10
Torx T8
1/4" Nut Driver or Wrench/Pliers
13/64 Drill Bit and Drill
Large and small slotted Screw Driver
 

	We have found a combination of hardware we like best.  We went with a longer screw than some recommend for ease of installation.  We use 16 of the M5 x 1mm washers, 8 Nylon M5 x 1mm washers and 4 M5 Cheese head 12mm screws.
	To install this you will need to disassemble your Xbox 360
	Remove the DVD drive by loosening the tape in the front of the console, lift the DVD drive and detach the two cables from the motherboard at the rear.
	Remove the fan shroud using a small slotted screw driver or any other small flat tool to push the tab holding it in place and lift up and out.
	Next, unplug the fan.  Then lift up on the steel flap holding the fan in place while pulling it toward you.
	Remove the power button / wireless controller board using your T8 driver.  There are three screws; one is hiding behind the plastic LED lens cover.
	Remove the all 8 heat sink screws (T8) holding the processors to the chassis.
	Remove the remaining motherboard screws using your Torx T10.
	At this point the motherboard will lift out.  The GPU heatsink is a great place to lift the board up and out.
	With the motherboard removed we can now access the X-Clamp that we will be replacing.  This is a somewhat tricky part and care should be taken to not be to aggressive and end up damaging the board.  We begin by wedging a small flathead screwdriver between the clamp and the stud.  Then gently rock the screw driver back and forth and the clamp will eventually work its way up and off of the stud.  The third will become very easy to remove and then it will just pop right off.
	With the clamp(s) removed the heat sinks just lift off.  Some heatsinks are more difficult to remove than others because the heatsink paste is still sticky.  Using your finger to push the stud through the hole works great for the more stubborn ones.
	Once the heat sinks are free we are able to use our 1/4" nut driver, wrench or pliers to remove the studs.
	To prepare the steel case we use a 3/16 or 13/64 drill bit to enlarge the 4 heatsink mounting screw holes for each of the heatsinks to be repaired so the larger M5 screw can be installed.  We use a Uni-bit for the task as it's first step is the 3/16ths we need and it also deburs the hole at the same time.  Spacing between the heatsink and the board is critical in this repair so make sure to clean off any stray steel shavings and burs; particularly on the board side of the steel chassis as this can impact your success.
	Install all the screws and use some tape to hold them in place.  This makes it much easier to keep everything in place.  If you choose not to do this that is fine... but when your cleaning up a bunch of washers and starting over again don't say we didn't warn you.
	Let the ring toss begin! Add 3 steel washers to each of the screws, followed by a single nylon washer.  It is very important to make sure you have three steel washers first and then a nylon washer last to isolate and protect the motherboard from damaged traces or shorts.
	Now that everything else is prepped its time to clean and prepare the processors themselves.  Start by removing as much of the old heat sink compound as you can with a tooth pick.  If you cannot get your hands on some ArctiClean, then use something like goo gone and a Q-tip to remove the excess compound from on and around the processors die.  Alcohol will work also but it is no where near as effective at removing the old sludge.  Follow up the job with a little alcohol to remove any leftover goo gone or other foreign oils or debris.  The processor dies should be clean and shiny.
	Next we need to apply a thin coat of thermal compound to the die.  The old adage "a dab will do ya" definitely applies.  Notice in the photo on the top the amount of compound we have used; this is more than enough.  You are looking for a skim coat similar to the thickness of plastic wrap.  The photo on the bottom is a example of what you should NOT do.  Silver based compounds can have adverse effects when in contact with electrical components not to mention the thermal compounds efficiency is greatly reduced when too much is applied.
	Now reinstall the motherboard, you may have to adjust the positioning of the screws to get them to fit through the motherboard.
	Now with the motherboard in place install the final two washers, a nylon one first followed by a steel one.  Again it is extremely important to have TWO washers between the heat sink and the board.  One nylon washer first to protect and isolate the motherboard and one steel... just to be redundant that makes two washers.
	Place your heat sinks onto the screws and hold them in place with one hand while carefully putting a couple of turns on each screw to keep the washers from falling off.  I place the unit on the edge of a table and from below poke my screwdriver through the tape and turn the screw in a few threads.  Do not tighten any of them completely yet.
	Now that everything is in check, peel the tape off of the screws and prepare to tighten them down.  Turn each screw gently until you feel a little resistance.  Do this to every screw before actually tightening them down.  Now similar to the technique used in mounting your wheels on your car or bolting down a head on your motor; begin to tighten each bolt slowly in a kitty corner fashion making sure to evenly distribute the pressure across the processors die.  Tightening down one side and then the other can result in a cracked processor die.  With your large screwdriver put the final turns on each screw.  You really cant make them too tight unless you actually strip out the heat sink which would require quite a monkey fisting.
	Now your ready to complete the fix.  Reconnect your power button assembly/wireless board.  Plug your fan back in but do not reinstall it in it's original location yet; also DO NOT put your fan shroud back in yet.  Connect your DVD drive so as to not get banned from Live for powering up your box without the drive connected.  Now with your Xbox basically re-assembled except for the fan shroud, plug your power and video cords in and proceed.
	Now for the most important part and most likely the point where the majority of people who were unsuccessful completing this fix failed.This step requires you to overheat your GPU.  Many tutorials tell you to unplug your fan and turn it on until it overheats.  There is one major flaw with this approach.  The thermosistor for the overheating protection of the 360 is contained within the CPU.  The problem is that the CPU overheats without any airflow before the GPU is able to get sufficiently hot to "reflow" the BGA solder connection that has failed.
	In order to cool the CPU but not the GPU it is again important to have your fan shroud removed.  Now take your fan that IS plugged in and lay it on top of your DVD drive with one of the fan's over the top of the CPU.  This will keep the CPU plenty cool to prevent it from overheating while the GPU will get smokin' hot; like burn your finger hot!
	Now power on your 360.  Some boxes may just work at this point because just pressure alone was enough to make the GPU's connection good.  I still like to overheat even those just to make sure I don't have to deal with it again.  So now you should be getting the three red lights like your were expecting.  You want to overheat the unit for at least 30 to 45 minutes.  The key is in the lights;  as long as it is flashing the 3 red lights (1,3,4) then your are in good shape and the overheating process is working.   What you DO NOT WANT is for the unit to actually overheat giving your TWO flashing red lights (1,3) at which point the 360 cuts off power to both the CPU and GPU preventing them from actually getting hot.  Again is probably the difference between someone who succeeds and someone who fails.
	Now that you have sufficiently heated the GPU, power down your Xbox 360 and let it cool down completely (ten to fifteen minutes should be more than enough).  Replace your fan shroud; you should now be fully assembled except for the case itself.  At this point you should cross your fingers and power your box back on.  If all went well your should now have a working 360!  Congrats!
	If it did not work for you its not completely a bust yet.  I suggest tightening the screws down even more and overheating yet again... some units are stubborn!
	Happy Gaming for those who were successful!

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How to connect your Xbox 360 Wired Controller to a computer running Windows

The Xbox 360 Controller for Windows software lets you use an Xbox 360 Controller with your computer running Microsoft Windows.

Step 1: Install the Xbox 360 Controller for Windows software

Use the installation CD that came with your Xbox 360 Controller for Windows, before you connect the Xbox 360 Controller for Windows to your computer. Here's how:

1. Insert the installation disc in the CD or DVD drive of your computer.
   
   If the setup program does automatically start, change to your CD or DVD drive and run the setup program.
2. On the setup screen, click Install.
3. The Xbox 360 Accessories Setup program installs the necessary files to your computer.
   
   Note You might be prompted to restart the computer.

Download the Xbox 360 Controller for Windows software

If you do not have an installation disc for your Xbox 360 Controller for Windows, you can download and install the software by following these steps:

1. Go to the Download Software section of the Microsoft Hardware page:
   http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/download/download.aspx?category=Gaming&type=Gaming
2. Select Controller as the product type.
3. Select Xbox 360 Controller for Windows as the product.
4. Select the version of Microsoft Windows you are using on your computer and the operating system language.
5. Click Go.
6. Click the setup link.
7. Click Run.

The Xbox 360 Accessories Setup program installs the necessary files to your computer. You might be prompted to restart the computer.

Step 2: Connect the controller to your computer

After you install the software, plug the USB connection on your Xbox 360 Wired Controller into a USB 2.0 port on your computer.

Step 3: Test the controller

To test your Xbox 360 Wired Controller on your computer, follow these steps:

1. On your computer, click Start, type joy.cpl, and then press ENTER.
2. Select Xbox 360 Controller, and then click Properties.
3. Test your Xbox 360 Wired Controller by pressing a button, pulling a trigger, or moving a stick on the controller.

Refer to your game documentation for information about how to configure the controller for a specific game.

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How to connect an Xbox 360 wireless controller or headset to your computer

The Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver for Windows lets you connect up to four wireless headsets and four wireless controllers to a computer running Microsoft Windows XP with Service Pack (SP2) or a later version of Windows.

Note The receiver is not intended for use on an Xbox 360 console.

Step 1: Connect the Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver to your computer

1. Remove the green label from the USB connector on the receiver.
2. Insert the USB connector into a powered USB 2.0 port on the computer.
   
   
   
   
   
   Note The USB ports on the front of your computer are probably not powered USB 2.0 ports. Try using the ports on the back of your computer.
   
   A green light on the receiver indicates that the unit is working.
3. If the Add New Hardware Wizard starts automatically, select Install the software automatically (Recommended), and then click Next. If the wizard installs the software successfully, click Finish and then skip to “Step 3: Connect an Xbox 360 wireless accessory to your computer” below.
   
   If the wizard fails to install the software, go to “Step 2: Install the Xbox Receiver software” below.

Step 2: Install the Xbox Receiver software

Before you can use wireless accessories with your computer, you might need to install some software on your computer. If you have the installation disc that came with your Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver, you can install the software from that disc. If you do not have that disc, you can install the software by downloading it from the Internet.

To install the software from disc

1. Insert the installation disc into the CD or DVD drive of your computer.
   
   If the Setup program does not automatically start, change to your CD or DVD drive and run the Setup program.
2. Follow the steps in the wizard to install the software.
   
   Note You might be prompted to restart the computer.

To install the software by downloading it from the Internet

1. Go to the Downloading Gaming Software section of the Microsoft Hardware Web site by following this link:
   http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/download/download.aspx?category=Gaming&type=Gaming
2. In Select type of product, select Controller.
3. In Select your product, select Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver for Windows.
4. In Select your operating system, select the version of Microsoft Windows you are using on your computer.
5. In Select your operating system language, select the language used by Windows on your computer.
6. Click Go.
7. Click the link to start the Setup program.
8. Click Run.

The Xbox 360 Accessories Setup program installs the necessary files to your computer.

Note You might be prompted to restart the computer.

Step 3: Connect an Xbox 360 wireless accessory to your computer

1. Turn on the Xbox 360 wireless accessory that you want to use with your receiver.
   
   For example, to turn on a controller, press and hold the Guide button located in the middle of the controller. If you do not know how to turn on the accessory, read the documentation for that accessory.
   
   
   
2. On the receiver, press the connect button. The light flashes green.
   
   
   
3. On the wireless accessory, press the connect button. For example, on the controller, the connect button is on the back.
   
   
   
   
   
   Green flashing lights on the accessory and on the receiver indicate that the device is trying to establish a connection. When the light stops flashing and remains lit, the accessory is connected. For example, on a wireless controller, one of the lights around the Guide button will remain lit.
   
   
   

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Use A Mouse and Keyboard On Your Xbox 360

While most Xbox 360 games make using a control pad enjoyable, there are still a lot of people who prefer using a mouse and keyboard, especially on shooters. This peripheral lets you combine the best of both worlds.


The XIM series of controller adapters for the Xbox 360 have been around for a while now, but they've been tricky to use and expensive. The new XIM3, however, seems to have a fix for both those problems.

For one, while previous models were a little...ghetto, the XIM3 is housed in a classy LCD box, which hopefully makes connection and configuration a cinch.
It'll also be cheaper than the last version, which came in at USD$200, because it no longer needs to use specific forms of wired controller to connect to the Xbox 360 (instead just using the standard, official wired controller).

The XIM3 works by acting as a "translator" or "bridge" between your Xbox 360 and PC peripherals. You plug your PC's keyboard and mouse into the XIM3, then plug it into the Xbox 360, and it's good to go.

It of course won't appeal to everybody, especially since so many big shooters get their own PC versions anyway, but if you want to play something like Halo Reach with some more precise controls, this looks like a good way to do it.



The Benefits of XIM

    Next-generation console input adapter
    Game on your Xbox 360 using your favorite PC gaming-grade hardware
    Mice, Keyboards, Joysticks, and Gameboard compatibility
    Unsurpassed in-game 1-to-1 feel thanks to advanced Smart Translator technology
    Simple configuration through an on-board full-color LCD screen
    Real-time feedback through the LCD to guide you to your optimal settings
    Supports your existing Xbox headsets and chatpads
    Firmware upgradable
    Active community forum

The Technology of XIM

There are many “mouse and keyboard” console adapters on the market today, so, what makes XIM3 so different? The answer is simple: precision. Making a high precision device (like a mouse) work well in a game that was designed for controller thumbsticks is a very hard problem. All console shooters have different levels of “aim-assist” that makes them playable using a controller. If done incorrectly, adapting a mouse to these games will result in aiming that feels jerky, unresponsive, and detached. XIM3 is the only device that takes this mouse “translation” to the next level using its unique “Smart Translator” technology.

Through Smart Translators, XIM3 is able to provide unparalleled mouse precision unachievable by any other gaming adapter available. The problem is simple: when the mouse moves, equivalent reticle movement on the screen should occur (i.e. 1-to-1 movement). This is the obvious result that all PC-gamers expect. But, before the creation of Smart Translators, was not possible on consoles. Every console shooter has its own unique look mechanic that governs how the game controls and feels to the gamer. Every game is different as they all have different stick dead-zones and geometries, variable sensitivity and acceleration regions, asymmetric sensitivity, non-linear movement, and more. Be cautious of any console mouse adapter that claims “PC-feel” without talking about how it solves all these challenges. XIM3’s Smart Translators is the only comprehensive solution for the entire look mechanic problem. Click here to see the expanding list of games with Smart Translator support.

XIM3’s simplicity and flexibility is also second-to-none. Its philosophy is to empower the gamer without bombarding them with unneeded complexity. Through XIM3’s on-screen user-interface, its quick and easy to set up your optimal gaming environment without requiring a PC or memorizing buttons to press. Even more, XIM3 will actually give you real-time feedback through the screen to help you find your optimal settings. For the most hard core gamer, XIM3 offers additional advanced options for further intricate refinement.

XIM3 enables a gamer to choose input devices that suits them best. Its hardware compatibility doesn’t stop at just mice and keyboards. Support is also included for unique devices such as the Logitech G13 (small gaming keyboards with a built-in thumbstick for analog player movement). Mix and match different devices for your optimal playing style. Click here for XIM3′s current hardware compatibility list.

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